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Also known as AHAs, these are non-toxic substances. This means that they occur naturally in food. They are non-prescription dermatological products with cosmetic benefits. They do more than simple cosmetic changes but whenever you begin to discuss the changes of cell structure, you immediately change this to the realm of a drug. The industry has become so large and powerful that the FDA would have a major fight on its hands. 

The most common AHAs are Citric Acid (citrus fruit), Glycolic Acid (sugar cane), Lactic Acid (sour milk), Malic Acid (apples), and Tartaric Acid (grape wine).  Today, most of these are made synthetically. These are actually better for you because both ingredients and the production are under control and never changes, which makes products more consistent. Natural products are never consistent. For example, you can take the grapes from year to year and the wine will taste different every harvest.

Clinical research and patient treatments clearly prove  that AHAs are effective in helping to keep the skin clear and healthier. The research also confirmed that the majority of AHAs have larger molecular structures that do not penetrate the top layer of the skin (stratum corneum) without high concentrations and lower pH levels.

Glycolic acid is the most adaptable and beneficial AHA. Its tiny molecular structure is precisely what makes its penetration the superior benefit over all other AHAs. It enters the epidermis to accelerate the body’s exfoliation process. It “loosens” the glue that bonds the cells together, allowing thickened and dead cells to "disappear."   It is an irritant on the skin and nothing more; there is no such thing as a moisturizing Glycolic Acid. The end result is smoother skin with better coloration, tone and texture.

You will see improvements in cell renewal, firmness, texture, reduction of fine lines and increased moisture levels. 

•Rough, dry and callous skin: Improve, soften, and eliminate these problems within weeks. May be used over the entire body as well as the face.

•Wrinkles and Crow’s Feet: Reduces and smoothes fine lines while it aids overall tone and texture.

•Age Spots & Hyper-pigmentation: Reduces these superficial lesions. You can treat more difficult areas with the addition of a hydroquinone solution to lighten more difficult discoloration.

•Oily and Acne Prone skin: Oil and dirt trapped in the glands can cause acne. This is partly due to a lack of exfoliation. Glycolic Acid can penetrate a pimple to improve exfoliation and it then goes deep to cleanse the pore and reduce the production of new comedones.

•Shaving: Makes shaving much easier by controlling dryness, irritation and uneven texture.  Improves the tone and softness of the face and the legs. Reduces and controls ingrown hairs.     

•Encrusted Nails: Effectively softens nails to improve permeability and efficacy of fungicides.

•Skin Peeling: (For in-office procedures.)  Termed the “lunch time peel”, it only takes

a few minutes and causes rapid exfoliation. You can offer a professional treatment on the face or even the entire body. Patients can be back to work (with makeup) in less than one hour. The best results are with non-buffered acids and you do not want to see peeling.

Glycolic Acid also acts as a stimulus to create a process in which the synthesis of new collagen can occur. We also see a rebuilding of fibril tissue evidenced by more even and taught skin.

Key Factors When Using Glycolic Acid:

Most people can use Glycolic Acid over the entire body. A small number (<5%) of people have very sensitive skin. They are not good candidates for a peel or for home maintenance products.

• First, and foremost, you must know what you are using and how to use it. To maximize your results, you should be aware of four key factors when using Glycolic Acid. Listed from least to most important:
  

• Conditions Influencing the skin: Other than deep peel products, Glycolic acid only works when left on the skin for at least twenty minutes. Glycolic cleansers are not effective. They do not offer any exfoliating capabilities.  The proper mix of products, that is,  a proper cleanser, Glycolic acid and sunscreen are critical to maximize the efficacy of your program.
  

• Frequency of Application:  MORE is not better. Apply small amounts thinly and evenly. We recommend the size of a green pea for one-half the face.
  

• Start at bedtime. After two weeks, increase application to twice a day. You do not have to use the products daily but daily usage will offer improved results. Evidence indicates that if you stop using Glycolic acid, the skin will revert to the way it was previously.
  

• Acid concentration: This is the percentage of acid used in the formulation. Most companies do not acknowledge their concentration. You have a right to know so do not be afraid to ask. If you have a problem and do not know what you are working with, how do you fix the problem?
  

• Concentration is not a critical factor until you know the pH of the product and if it is buffered or non-buffered. Most people think that the higher the concentration amount (i.e. 15% is greater than 10%), the better the product. Nothing could be farther from the truth. Variables such as buffering agents can dramatically affect product efficacy. This is only important in non-buffered formulations.
  

For optimal results on the body and face, start with 8% - 10% concentrations and gradually build to 20%, the maximum allowed for home maintenance. The sensitive area around the eye should use Glycolic acid products with 1% concentration.  Look for pH levels ranging above 3.0 but below 4.1.

# 1: Amount of Acid delivered  = pH: This and not acid concentration is the key to results. More importantly, free acid (non-buffered) will give you even greater efficacy. This is the true amount of acid being delivered to the skin. Glycolic Acid that is buffered has reduced efficacy and does not deliver what you think you are getting or what you are being told is in the product.

The skin’s pH ranges from 4.6 - 6.2. Clinical research has proven that in order to achieve maximum results Glycolic acid products need to have a pH of 4.1 or below. A pH below 3.0

is too irritating and may only be used in a professional setting.

Ask your supplier what their pH is and find out if it is buffered. Buffering locks in a pH level but it also reduces the “active” acid because it negates it.  Many products that claim to have a specific pH and are buffered may actually have as much as a 75% reduction in the amount of  “active” acid.

Concept:

Your skin is very intelligent. It constantly monitors and adjusts its pH level based on need and skin condition.  External factors and diseases of the skin can affect its ability to function properly. Therefore, you need and want to assist your body by creating optimum conditions to allow these products to be most effective.

The goal is to utilize products that work well by themselves and that work synergistically.

That is, they work even better when combined. 

Medical offices have utilized Glycolic Acid for almost 20 years. It is the safest and most effective topical agent for cosmetic and medical usage to help with accelerated aging of the skin.  It works for all ages.

The Importance of pH:  

The acid mantle of the skin is made from lipids and sweat.  This film creates a semi-protective layer on the skin to help fight dehydration and bacterial invasion.  The pH of the mantle is typically 5.5 which means our skin is naturally acidic.  However, very oily and acne prone skin can be as low as 4.5 while very sensitive and dry skin can be 6.2. Any product that is applied to the skin will temporarily adjust the pH of the skin’s mantle.   The skin, however, is very smart.  It never forgets what we do to it and it will eventually revert back to its level of pH.

Clients with very dry skin tend to be more alkaline, even though their skin is acid-based.  When they use a product like bar soap, which is already alkaline, they will create more dryness. This understanding and knowing what they use will allow us to improve their appearance and give them direction on better ways to take care of themselves once they leave.

Dry, thin or sensitive skin tends to produce less sebum and has a thinner acid mantle.  This is why products with low pH are more irritating to them. Utilizing Glycolic treatments and knowing the pH level becomes most important for the long-term benefits for the clients.

Acidic products, such as AHAs or BHAs, are designed to accelerate exfoliation. The level of acid actually breaks apart the glue that holds the skin’s cells together.  Toners are also acidic and are designed to degrease the skin as well as adjust pH.  

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